My “sew edgy” looks include high-contrast color schemes, so I have been itching to try a project using both sides of this lightweight denim:
I love the idea of these Thom Browne skirts with the contrast in the pleats (but not the preppy AF textiles). Could I do something similar?
Thanks for the advice on the McCall’s shirtdress. I decided the skirts were not for me, but you gave me a great idea to mash up the top with another skirt that wasn’t so full or so fitted. I found this vintage Butterick in my pattern stash – and I think it will work!
The pattern is copyrighted 1991. What do you suppose the models are saying to each other?
View A: In this sexy mid-calf red skirt, I will audition for a role on Murphy Brown!
View B: Forget it, View A, you slut! A black pleated skirt is what Murphy likes!
View C: If I swap out this pendant for a crucifix and put on some rubber bracelets, I could wear my skirt to a Madonna concert!
You get the idea…
Anyway… I think I will try View D because it has fewer pleats and I think the center-front panel will flatter my bod better than pleats all around. The skirt has two pattern pieces and a waistband. The weird-looking giant notches are for sewing down the pleats. The front and back are cut on the fold, and then there’s a side panel to give the skirt some shape.
I will need to cut the pattern pieces on the foldlines of the pleats and add seam allowances. I pleated the tissue pattern and marked the different sections.
This seems easy, but the issue, of course, is the grainline. The pleats don’t follow the grainline, but they’re close. See the grainline on the left and follow the pleats – you can see through the tissue to the grid cutting mat.
I marked each colored section as black or white and marked the grainline for each. Some of the pieces will be cut a little bit on the bias. That will be a fun challenge. I assume I need to follow the grainline of the original layout, right? If anyone knows better, please speak up!
Anyway, I am going to make a muslin to see if this is even worthwhile. My mother-in-law gave me this ugly lovely duvet and sheet set several years ago – the contrast will make the perfect muslin material.
Assuming this all works, I will need to figure out how to attach the skirt to the top of the dress from McCall’s 6696. First things first…
Sounds good! I certainly don’t think you can go wrong following the original grain line.
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Right? I’ll see how it goes
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I’d keep the grain running centrally down the underpleat, perpendicular to the hip line. If you cut them sightly off bias, they’ll be wonky.
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Yeah – think that’s the way to go. I tried keeping the grain parallel for each piece to the original grain and it did indeed get wonky.
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