Look what arrived in the mail yesterday!
My first Burda Style magazine, ordered as a back issue from the magazine distributor. I was inspired by some bloggers I follow (Dressmaking Debacles and Doctor T Designs) to give Burda a chance, and the December issue had several patterns that interested me. Plus, there’s advice on how to alter patterns for asymmetrical shoulders, which I always do (but not the “right” way, I’ve learned).
I have sewn Burda tissue patterns twice and have gotten good results, although the skirt I made last year was more of a slog than it should have been. The fit baffled me and I didn’t like the way the lining went in. I was pressed for time because the skirt was for a contest.
At the time I said I hated Burda. I am giving it another chance. I’ve learned that Burda’s block may be a better fit for me because they draft for someone 5’6″ and some patterns are for women 5’9″, so I am less likely to need to lengthen bodices and hems. Their “plus” sizes have great dimensions for my shape. Finally, tracing patterns onto paper and adding seam allowances annoys me less than it used to. I have realized that the tracing and measuring can be a good diversion for me; at times when I am too tired to cut or sew, I can trace and measure and feel like I accomplished something. Also, I just got a big roll of Swedish tracing paper, so I am all kitted up.
Burda’s pants hold great promise for me. I am starting with these, from the “plus size” collection in this magazine. The line drawing’s rough and the photo of the project doesn’t really do it justice. Anyway, these are pants with a curved waistband, a side zip and a little bit of elastic at center back, which should be great for my big waist-to-butt ratio. I really like a pair of RTW pants that have this feature, and I have no idea how to do it myself. The pants also have zippers at the ankles, which I like for a bit of edgy style.
The pattern suggests stretch woven fabrics, and I have some nice charcoal stretch woven wool gabardine in my stash.
I will make a muslin out of the Swedish tracing paper, using the Palmer-Pletsch method I learned in a class in 2016 of adding 1-inch seam allowances and drawing some horizontal lines along the pattern at key places to check for fitting issues. The lines should be parallel to the floor, so if the lines on your muslin curve out or in, you know you need to make an adjustment there. Typically, I need to pinch out fabric at my hip crease and add a bit to center back.
Assuming these pants go well, I have my eye on a dress, blouse and jacket in this issue. I am trying not to get ahead of myself.